Installing a Dynamic Scale Modeling motor & sound board
Very carefully put a drop liquid cement, I use Tenax, to attach the mounting plate to the fuselage. You will note in the photo I had to remove the top part of the mounting plate since I got some glue on the shaft and it was binding.  Clyde from DSM was very helpful in this situation.  He suggested attaching the motor lead directly to a 1.5v battery and let it run at a constant speed for a little while.  I let it run for about 5 minutes and this wore down the glue enough that everything was fine.  When everything is cured, check position and apply a small drop of thick CA glue to each side where the motor rests against the inside of the exhausts.  That holds everything straight and solid and reduce the chance of getting some unwanted wobble in the prop.

Drill a hole from the center of the axle, more or less, to the side of the LG yoke.  This will have the wire come down the side of the strut like a brake line and enter in a position that approximates where it would enter for the brakes.  The 2nd photo illustrates the angle you want to try to get. 
Drill a hole with a somewhat larger bit, about a #55 should do to give the wire a little "wiggling around" room, just a bit off center of the tire so it comes out in the hole for the LG axle.  I am using Ultracast diamond tread wheels here.  They are beautifully cast with crisp detail... even has a valve stem.  Feed the wire in the axle hole and out the tire, then press the wheel on the shaft gently tugging on the wire so the wheel will slip on the axle.  Make the hole on the hub a bit bigger if need be.
The left photo is a dry fit of the wire and wheels.  The right photo is the completed assembly, ready for the wires to pass through a base or diorama to the sound board.
Getting the motor into the fuselage itself was pretty straight forward.  Using a Tamiya kit, I followed the steps as suggested by the sheet that came with the motor and the photos on the DSM website.  There is round, white plastic mounting disc already attached to the front of the motor.  I found that if I cut off the part of the disc that extended beyond the edges of the motor on the flat side, it slipped into the space between the exhausts perfect.  Drill out the hole in the spinner back plate from the kit with a #37 bit for a snug fit in the motor shaft.  Check first in the event the manufacturer changes the specs. Use this to position the motor in the fuselage so the spinner lines up and the motor shaft is square.
Secure the wire to the outside of the LG strut.  Leave a bit of a loop and pass the wire behind the strut and through the oleo scissors.  With another small loop, bring the wire down the yoke and pass it through the axle.  The S bend will be painted black later to represent the flexible section of the brake line.

The sound and motor control components have been removed from the acrylic base they are mounted on from DSM.  The power  leads are attached to some copper wires that are mounted on the base, protruding up through to the top.  Carefully scrape away the epoxy coating on the wire just at the tire, snip it off leave about 1 or 2 mm and carefully stuff that back into the hole in the tire to make contact with the pins in the base.  The magnet fits perfectly inside an oil drum from the Tamiya 1/48 Jerry Can & Oil Drum set.  A strategically placed oil stain marks the spots for the magnetic switch.
Note:  By the time I had been able to update the site I learned the DSM has closed its doors.  Wish I had bought more of these little gems.